Skame

If you want to work in a clandestine manner, don't hire the CIA - hire an underground graffiti artist. I am astounded at how long some of these individuals have kept their identities secret, even after working decades, interviews with the New York Times or having been arrested, as Revs was in 2000. These men are not hiding in the hills of Afghanistan, they are living in the most populous city in the United States and tagging prominent public spaces in high traffic neighborhoods.

In the 1980s and 90s, Revs teamed up with artist Cost and became two of the most well known graffiti artists in New York City. Cost and Revs gave a rare interview in 1993 with New York Times reporter Michael Cooper - see here.. In 1995, Cost was arrested and his identity finally became known - Adam Cole of Rego Park Queens - read article here.

Revs' identity, on the other hand, even after arrest in 2000, is still unknown.

In 2004, in an interview for ArtForum magazine, Revs said: "We think art should be dangerous. Everybody's into safe art, doing safe things in their studio. We're bringing danger back into it. It's got to be on the edge, where it's not allowed."

In 2005, he was interviewed again by Times reporter Randy Kennedy (article here). "To me," he said in a rare interview, "once money changes hands for art, it becomes a fraudulent activity."

The work in the photo is on Canal Street, one of the most trafficked crosstown streets in the city. How access is had and these things done without being apprehended is a mystery to me. I had hoped to get some information of any sort on the artist who tags himself Skame, but I could find nothing. According to the Urban Dictionary, s.c.a.m.e. is an acronym utilized by the Psyop Community. "It is conducive to 'counter-propaganda,' in that, it eludes to source, content, audience, media used, and effect of the propaganda. To s.c.a.m.e. propaganda, refers to one's attempt to analyze the content of said propaganda using techniques taught at the JFK Special Warfare Training Center." I don't know if there is a connection to the tag Skame and perhaps I will never know ...

What numba Kissena?

I have previously written here of my experience as a New York City taxi driver when I was a university student. Nothing beats cab driving for a crash course in New York City and learning about its geography, boroughs and people. There are many taxi cab stories I have exchanged with others - in the course of driving nights, inevitably a driver will run across some outrageous situations. This has been the subject of the film documentary Night on Earth and the TV series Taxicab Confessions.

I was introduced to driving by a college friend, an interloper into our university lives who was a native New Yorker and a few years older than we were. He was not a student and to us at that time, he was a man of the world. He introduced me to many things in New York City, like Wo Hop - the legendary Chinese restaurant at 17 Mott Street.

I was new here and very naive and innocent. I was wide-eyed and easily impressed. On one particular night while driving a taxi, I was lost in Queens looking for a particular address on Kissena Blvd. I was tired, it was dark and the print on my borough map was getting too small and painful to decipher. An older driver was standing outside his cab - if I recall, he was eating a sandwich. He looked seasoned so I asked "do you know where Kissena Blvd is?' To which he replied in classic New Yorkese - "What numba Kissena?"

Wow. Can u imagine? This man did not only know the location of Kissena Blvd, but apparently he was able to give specific directions to a particular address based on its street number alone! This seemed to be an incredible feat to me at the time - like some brilliant memory act using mnemonic devices or perhaps he was a savant with special abilities to know everything about street addresses.

In hindsight however, nothing of the sort is necessary and in fact Kissena Blvd uses the block numbering system common to Queens and developed by Charles U. Powell in 1911, a chief engineer in the topographical bureau who modeled it after the Philadelphia grid system. There is a method to the madness or what the New York Times referred to as the "vexing vortex of the Queens street system." See the article and explanation of the system here.

Plan or no plan, however, the system is still vexing - any number may exist as an avenue, road, place, lane, street, drive or any combination. Even Queens residents are often helpless and resort to just asking for directions. If they are lucky, they get someone who is a street savant and can retort with something like "What numba Kissena?" :)

Related Posts: New Yawk Style, Sea of Yellow,

The Last Taboo

In New York City, I have been privy to many conversations on a subject that is quite taboo - childlessness i.e. the adult or couple who, for one reason or another, chooses not to become a parent. At best, one hopes for at least civil tolerance between parents and nonparents regarding the subject. But discussions can become quite hostile, quickly escalating to character assassinations.

Many are driven to the city to pursue careers and take advantage of an environment where the American Dream looms large. Child rearing is often put on the back burner until later in life. Often, couples leave the city for the suburbs when a decision has been made to raise a family. Economics also make it difficult to have a family here - it is doable, but the cost of real estate is extraordinary. And there are those who just never wanted children - for these, the city provides a level of social possibilities and a density of human interaction hard to find elsewhere.

There is such a stimulatory environment in New York City, that any children that are here almost become lost in a sensory assault of people, places, things and activities. See Mary Celeste here.

And there are those that actually do hate kids. The childless who like children, but just have chosen not to have them, often must defend themselves against being a child hater. In 2005, the New York Times published an article Supersize Strollers Ignite Sidewalk Drama. In it, the discussion of childlessness is described as the last taboo:

Not having children "doesn't mean I hate kids," she said. "But I do hate the parents who somehow have decided that they are superior to everyone else because they have kids."

It might help, Ms. Felcher and others said, if parents and nonparents could talk about their feelings toward one another. "It's the last taboo in this culture," Ms. Felcher said. "You just can't talk about it."

Ms. Anderson agreed, "We're a bit afraid of expressing our opinions for fear of being labeled as people who hate children or who do not support women."

I do not champion the life of the childless or dislike children. The negatives of being childless become greater as individuals age. Parents pass away and often only siblings, if there are any, remain as the only close family. Even a minimal level of care taking or assistance becomes unavailable. Holidays can become times of sadness. Many are terrified at the prospect of aging alone - even with money, a social safety net needs to include people, something money doesn't buy.

It is easy to live a life in New York City with virtually no interaction with children at all. Childless individuals and couples are common and easy to befriend. Some may feel this is an impoverished life. Others see it as a merely a lifestyle choice and a realization that not everyone is cut out to be a parent. We should be capable of rational, calm dialog about the subject without character assaults. It should not be the last taboo ...

Related Postings: Little Burnt Out, Heart Warming, Warm and Fuzzy, Mary Celeste.

White by Design

In the beginning, I would take the conversations seriously. By seriously, I mean attentively, with a reasonable expectation that I would get different responses regarding suggestions for color. Soon, however, I realized my best friend's answers would be presented and argued differently, but the preferred color in almost any situation was the same - white.

It became a private joke between this long time friend and other close friends. Her design choice appeared to always be white. Drapes, wall color, clothing - anything that was available in white was usually chosen or recommended.

With absolute serendipity, many years later, I discovered a hardcover book: White By Design by Bo Niles (published in 1984 and still in print). It was a virtual tribute to white and its use for interior decoration. The perfect gift. But alas, I was too lazy to purchase it. One of life's small regrets.

White is so important to visual artists. It is the color of light itself, and artists love and need light - it is one of their primary tools. I remember how surprised and disappointed I was when Apple Computer went from their six-color rainbow logo to white, starting in 1998. Eventually even their pioneering success in translucent color iMacs gave way to white. Now, I love the white that dominates the color theme for Apple's packaging, graphics and product line.

White has an elegance when used well as a decor choice. It not only gives a clean look, it allows other objects to shine. Used badly, white can be a horrific choice - everything is mercilessly revealed with white. It is also deliberately and conspicuously impractical, making a statement about luxury and the ability and willingness for maintenance. The decision to use white in an unforgiving city like New York makes a particularly strong statement.

White has cultural significance and is associated with purity, freedom and cleanliness. There is a litany of positive associations in so many areas of life. We have white sugar, pure sand, snow, cotton, clouds, milk, white uniforms, white rooms, the white house, white dove of peace, white robes of clergy, white bridal dresses and white magic.

This shop in SoHo, the Cyrus Company, was arresting in its use of white. I was reminded, however, of the book I never purchased. But then, as now, there is always time, because the world never tires of white. In many ways, much of our world is White by Design :)

Related Postings: That's Quite a Briefcase, Who See the Red?, Coleur du Jour, Tale of Two Colors, A Colorful Life, Color Brigade, Eye Candy.

No Lipitor

If you live in New York City, sooner or later, you are most likely going to end up enjoying a ride on the Long Island Expressway (aka the L.I.E.) and learn why this roadway has become known as the world's largest parking lot. Many also feel the acronym LIE is appropriate for a thoroughfare that represents itself as an expressway.

The photo was taken during my recent journey to visit a friend in Roslyn, Long Island, a distance of under 20 miles from Manhattan. What could, under ideal conditions, have been a 30 minute ride, turned out to be a painful 90 minute crawl.

This highway is the major artery running east from Manhattan (via the Queens Midtown Tunnel) and servicing the Long Island suburbs of New York City. It extends 71 miles, going through Queens and nearly the entire length of Long Island.

We have the largest island in the contiguous United States and the largest city in the US, serviced by essentially one major highway. And that means trouble. Compound this with the fact that we are talking about islands and that means limited access. For the traveller who is experienced with all the alternate routes and is able to assess the situation based on conditions, time of day, weather, etc., the expressway can be avoided - there are various alternate routes that parallel the LIE for various distances - the Northern State Parkway, the Southern State Parkway and Sunrise Highway. Others who are particularly averse to traffic can resort to local routes like the Northern Boulevard.

But not everyone has the stomach for tactical maneuvering and most will just take the simplest route and travel the clogged artery. For this one, we have no Lipitor ...

Winter Walks

Here is something I like best about living in New York City: winter does not subsume us. There are a number of reasons for this. The city is a pedestrian place and our mobility is not so strongly influenced by seasonal weather - walking goes on relatively unfettered by rain, cold or the occasional snow. We stroll to restaurants and window shop in virtually the same manner all year. Subways run primarily underground, so there again, we do not deal with mother nature. Also, the city which we see daily is primarily man made, so in many areas and neighborhoods, the appearance of the city changes little or not at all.

I grew up in New England and the coming of Winter really changes the collective mindset. The visuals change dramatically with denuded trees and withering grass. Out come the rakes and snow shovels. Snow tires are checked, gutters cleaned, storm windows positioned, deck furniture put away, swimming pools drained and covered - an entire litany of annual rituals and chores indelibly imprinted in our minds, emblematic of the season. And these changes are not reversed in a warm spell - pools are not filled with water for the day or picnics planned. Apartment dwellers do not have to deal with any seasonal preparations or chores - for most of us we just put on a heavier coat.

The worst part of New England winters was that feeling of being shut in. There are seasonal activities for those who partake - bike riding, hiking, skiing, apple picking, etc, but after childhood's end, I found it really too cold to want to do much outdoors.

I found comfort that I am not alone in these thoughts and feelings - I came across an article in the New York Times, Winter Walks on Country Roads, written in 1879 about New England winters. Here is the first paragraph:

Even the faintest gleam of sunlight, and the shortest period of freedom, are inexpressibly welcome to a prisoner. Now we are all prisoners; we are shut in doors by an inclement season; we live six months in fear and trembling; we dread the Winter air as we ought to dread the wrath to come. To a certain extent this feeling is justified, for our Winter storms are both disagreeable and exhausting. But we are generally our own jailers in this confinement; for the dread of the bad days lingers over the good ones, and keeps us from the freedom and sunshine that we can safely enjoy during nine-tenths of the Winter days. The injury this confinement works on our national health is certainly worth consideration; and every amusement that tends to bring us out-doors in the Winter should be practiced with persistent enthusiasm. Walking is without question the exercise that is the best, the safest and the most practicable, for everybody. Anybody who can walk can dissipate the gloom of Winter, enliven his blood till it tingles, and secure buoyant health and vigor. In a word, the walker can enjoy all the benefits of out-door life on the snow just as well as on the turf or gravel.

C.H.F. The New York Times, 1897.

In New York City, if there is a spate of atypically warm weather in the winter, people respond instantly and for a brief period of time, it's like winter never existed. Out come the people in dress and with the accoutrement of spring and summer. Street performers, vendors, sitting on park benches, sunbathing, picnicking, reading, Frisbee - virtually every warm weather activity can be found.

On our recent run of warm weather last weekend, the Baby Soda Jazz Band appeared, performing their eclectic street jazz with influences ranging from New Orleans brass bands, jug music, southern gospel and jazz. The music was infectious and people took to literally dancing in the streets (park actually).

Of course there are wonderful winter activities and holidays and the prudent person does well to embrace the season, not resist it. For now though, I choose to resist as long as possible and join the dancers in the streets :)

Montmarte and Peillon

I love my places high and my neighborhoods charming - bucolic and oozing with character, history, fine architecture and artists. My neighborhood in New York City, the Village, certainly has many of these attributes, but to get the full package, I go to France.

My favorite indulgences are the village perché (perched villages) in the South of France - small, hilltop medieval villages. I have been obsessed with these places, at one time compiling a database of 269 of the most wonderful and cross referencing them with my collection of books on French villages. I created database entries for comments and checkboxes to note which books recommended which villages.

Too small to find in the Michelin Map index, I laboriously located all of the villages through map exploration, tagged them in the maps and added the map coordinates to my database for future reference. I included the official French département. The printed result became a guide for my travel to Provence and the Alpes-Maritmes and Vaucluse. I visited dozens of these villages, often to the chagrin of my travel companions. On one family trip, my sister was completely befuddled as to why I would do this and why anyone would want to travel that way - I think she saw it as analogous to paint by number. I like numbers and my desire to accumulate villages visited knew no bounds. My favorite is Peillon. perched in the hills, with stone houses clinging to a cliff face at 1000 feet.

There is still some artistic flavor to Greenwich Village, but most of its art history is in the past - see story here. Its legacy of beat poets, artists, musicians, writers, dancers, actors and performers reads like a who's who of the American arts. The neighborhood has become much too expensive to really qualify as any type of artistic bohemia. However, musicians and performers are common and occasionally one may still see someone painting in the streets or parks of the Village.

Today's artists here typically either travel in and out of the city or are some of the few remaining benefactors of rent controls, living in below market rentals.

Much of the Village has been commercialized and is heavily touristed, but no one has taken away the charm of many of the neighborhood streets and its collection of hundreds of 19th century row houses. The West Village is particularly beautiful - see here.

In Paris, I get all this with hills (over 400 feet) in Montmarte, an area also known for its history of artists. Those who worked in or around Montmarte include Vincent van Gogh, Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Modigliani, Claude Monet, Raymond Duchamp-Villon, Henri Matisse, Renoir, Degas, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Somehow street painters there today still seem to have a little more authenticity, but I would imagine a Parisian might see them the way we say street painters in New York City - exploiters and sellers of an artistic past to tourists.

As I stroll the Village, I head for the hills. In the distance, I think I see Montmarte and Peillon ...

Mamoun's

Falafel has gone from being an obscure specialty to one that is familiar to most across the land. The pita bread sandwich is the vehicle most often used to deliver the deep fried, crusty balls or patties, along with salad and tahini sauce.

To many aficionados, the secret ingredient that separates the good from the mediocre is the use of fava beans. Falafel originated in Egypt, where it was made with fava beans. As falafel migrated north to areas like Israel or Palestine, chickpeas were substituted for the fava beans. Falafel is now typically made with chickpeas and to a much lesser extent with fava beans or a mixture of the two. See my story here on Ful Mudammas, a delectable salad made with these beans.

Once on MacDougal Street between West 3rd and Bleecker Streets, Mamoun's is easy to find - just look for lines spilling out the door. On Yelp.com alone there are over 400 reviews to date - Mamoun's is famous and the number of reviews reflects that. They were the first to introduce falafel to New York City and one of the first Middle Eastern restaurants in the United States.

Mamoun's averages high rankings on most food sites. However, there are naysayers - some of the reviewers disappointed with the food were puzzled by the lines. But this is usually easy to explain. Restaurants generally have lines for only a few reasons - hype, food quality, quantity, pricing and overall value. And although many things are subject to debate about Mamoun's, pricing is not one of them - a falafel sandwich there is only $2.95, explaining why Mamoun's has been a perennial favorite of college students. The place is primarily takeout - there is very limited, cramped seating. It is a tiny, cramped and not particularly pleasant shop - turning out the volume of food that the place serves is nothing short of a miracle. To watch the man scooping small balls of falafel into the deep frier is mesmerizing - the unending production must be a mind numbing task. The menu features a handful of items - you can see the menu here.

Mamoun's, at 119 MacDougal Street, was opened in 1971. They have two other locations - one in the East Village on St. Marks Place and one in New Haven, Connecticut. Some love the place, others deplore it. Many say there are much better places to get falafel and yet some feel that a full New York Experience can not be had without at least one trip to Mamoun's ...

Criminal Suspect

Why was I being followed by a police vehicle while driving slowly down Main Street? I was not stalling traffic in any way - in fact I was the only automobile going down Main Street in Bristol, Connecticut, the town I grew up in. I was showing a friend, who was an architect, the tragedy that was Main Street in this factory town. The left side of the street had original structures and was charming actually.

But the right side had been completely ripped down to make way for a small shopping mall, destroying all future possibility of any historic revitalization of this downtown. I expressed my frustration to my companion of how emblematic this was of the type of thinking - to modernize rather than preserve - that one might have found at one time in towns across America. I think today, there are more examples of preservation of older architecture/districts and the value and positive results in doing so.

The policeman actually followed us into the shopping mall parking lot and watched us leave the car. It was eerie and scary, honestly. I have a theory of why I was followed, part of which is that apparently anyone perusing the architecture in Bristol, Connecticut is a criminal suspect, particularly someone in a vehicle with New York license plates.

Being ostracized for thinking differently is one reason I moved to New York City. Things have changed of course and with the plethora of media and the Internet, perhaps one is less the outcast for being different in the small town.

In New York City, however, with time and effort, you can not only be tolerated, but can even create a persona and become a small living legend by being different. Whether it is the Adam Purple, graffiti artist Adam Cost, streetlamp Mosaic Man Jim Power, builder of a Tower of Toys Eddie Boros, or gender bender and fashionista such as André, you can turn eccentricity into celebrity. You can take a singular passion or talent and run with it.

It can be a very singular interest, perhaps decorating a bicycle over a period of 24 years, like that of Hector Robles in the photo. Hector grew up on the Lower East Side of New York City, on 7th Street between Avenues C and D. He currently lives in Staten Island and makes the journey to Manhattan with a combination of bus, ferry and subway, toting his bicycle the entire way. The vehicle is in a constant state of flux, a work in progress. Hector, who is of Puerto Rican ancestry, is quite religious, as can be seen by the numerous figures and images adorning his bike.

I don't think Hector would fare well in Bristol with his bicycle. I am sure he would be tolerated, but I doubt he would be celebrated. And I hope not treated like a criminal suspect :)

Pawns

New York City is a good place for raising public awareness on any issue. The large populace and spotlight cast on it means that any reasonably sized gathering will garner some attention - if organized well enough, perhaps with TV and media coverage. Union Square has a long history of being a place for demonstrations - see here and here. Washington Square Park has also been a venue for public gatherings, demonstrations, marches and vigils.

The story of Shane Bauer, Josh Fattal and Sarah Shourd was new to me. The three young Americans, all graduates of the University of California at Berkeley, have been detained in Tehran, Iran since July 31, 2009, when they accidentally crossed an unmarked border during a hiking trip in a scenic area in the mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan. Swiss diplomats, who represent U.S. interests in Iran, were permitted to visit Shane, Sarah and Josh on September 29, 2009 for the first time. The hikers’ families have not been able to speak with them.

The press reports appear to make it clear that the three were on vacation with no malintentions and were simply lost in the mountains. A report from the Associated Press says:

Their case has become the latest source of friction between Washington and Tehran, with Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton, above, appealing for their release. American officials and authorities in Iraq's Kurdish region say the hikers crossed the border by mistake. But Iran's state television has said they disregarded warnings from border guards, and an Iranian lawmaker has said they may be charged with espionage.

The Vigil of Hope took place in Washington Square Park on Sunday afternoon, sponsored by FreeTheHikers.org. It was followed by a Fundraiser at Town Tavern. The vigil marked the 100th day the hikers have been detained in Iran. I find it deplorable that individuals like this are used as pawns in a larger game. I love chess, played with real pawns, not people ...

Word Freaks

One of the defining characteristics of New York City is the passion, fervor and obsession of many individuals in pursuit of activities, some of which might not seem worthy of an adult's time and effort.

Most people understand that chess is a serious game - various pieces each with its own special movement abilities and rules make it somewhat formidable to the newcomer. And a number of its champions are known to the public - most notably Bobby Fischer.

But Scrabble is a game that is seen by most as a past time, most often associated with their childhood. A game that can easily learned and enjoyed by all. To see it taken seriously by adults may come as a surprise. Except in New York City, where nearly everything is taken seriously by someone or some group and board games are no exception - the perfect activities for a city limited in free space.

Stefan Fatsis, a former journalist for the Wall Street Journal, took time off from his job to investigate the world of top-level tournament Scrabble. He became obsessed with the game and the book Word Freak emerged from his more than three years of nonstop Scrabbling. Published in 2001, the book became a New York Times bestseller. Fatsis describes the exotic subculture of characters he met in the Manhattan Scrabble club and in northwest corner of Washington Square Park such as:

G.I. Joel Sherman, a jobless, gastrointestinally challenged, fulltime Scrabble player; Marlon Hill, an anagramming Malcolm X ; Matt Graham, a pill-popping stand-up comic; Joe Edley, a nonconfrontational human-potential devotee who nonetheless irritates fellow players in his dual role as champion player and National Scrabble Association executive; Lester Schonbrun, an armchair Communist who began playing in the early 1960s.

The northwest corner of Washington Square Park, seen in the photo, has been the haunt of Scrabble players for years. In fact, this area's use for Scrabble play was taken into consideration in the recent redesign of the park. Here, on the new enlarged stone tables you will find serious Scrabble players with time clocks, Scrabble dictionaries and score sheets. World-class championship players can be found among them.

The Scrabble players in Washington Square Park were also featured in the 2004 documentary film Word Wars.

What type of people take an ordinary game to the level of obsession? National Scrabble Association, Johns D. Williams, Jr. says:

“Scratch the surface of any champion in any individual sport and you’re often going to find an obsessed misfit who’s deficient in many parts of his life.”

You have to give up something to be a world class word freak :)

Note: The Southwest corner of the park is the realm of chess. See Chess Monsters here.

Related Postings: Good Fortune, Marshall Chess Club.

Dead Man Walking

A few of years ago, while crossing the intersection at west 4th Street and Washington Square East, I was hit with a glancing blow to my side by a car, swept completely off my feet, bounced off the hood, landed feet first and continued walking without breaking my stride one bit. I turned while walking and scowled at the driver who looked like he recognized the massive impending doom to come, but I only kept walking to his and the onlookers' amazement. The expectation was, of course, that there would be the confrontation and requisite berating. There would be exchange of personal details, the police and implicit threat of lawsuits, claims of pain and suffering with symptoms both real and imagined. The fun would be all mine - there could be no defense in hitting a pedestrian. And I was even in the crosswalk with the walk light in my favor.

I am not a hero or superman, only very lucky. After landing on my feet, I just knew instinctively that I was not injured, so why not enjoy a bit of self righteous arrogant indignation with the world and perpetrator all on my side? How often does an opportunity like this present itself to look like a victim and hero at the same time?

An anecdote like this does not, however, make a case for walking in the streets with reckless abandon, jay walking and other pedestrian transgressions. Or walking up the center of Broadway in rush hour traffic as seen in the photo.

At times, the sidewalks of Manhattan are jammed with teaming masses and almost unwalkable. No one likes traffic and most drivers will strive to take short cuts and alternate routes to avoid congestion. Often, however, for both the pedestrian or automobile driver, only one road leads to Rome and we must suffer that route.

Pedestrians do have other options though - take it to the streets and walk curbside. This style, along with walking diagonally across streets and through intersections rather than perpendicular at crosswalks, is a good indicator that the individual is a New Yorker. Tourists will rarely walk in such a manner - only when absolutely necessary but certainly not as the regular habit common with so many city residents.

For the long time New Yorker on the go, the crawl of pedestrians at rush hour, the hordes of shoppers and/or the amble of tourists in awe of our great city are all just irritants - walking in the streets is the balm to soothe. Many would say that life has numerous irritants, crowds and traffic, and that dealing with congestion is part of the contract one signs to be in New York City in the first place. And to flaunt with traffic is to be nothing less than a Dead Man Walking ...

Photo Note: This was taken in the evening rush hour from the center of Broadway in SoHo looking north. The Chrysler Building can be seen distant center. I do not walk in the center of a street or avenue long or often - in this case only a moment to capture the photo. I received no honking horns or other admonitions from drivers.

"Dead Man Walking" is slang used by prison guards when escorting death row prisoners from their cells to the execution chambers. Dead Man Walking is also the title of a 1995 film starring Sean Penn.

Zena

I love small buildings and small mysteries. Here, at 82 7th Avenue and 301 Bleecker Street in the West Village, there is a remarkable tiny, two-story building occupied only Zena and her daughter sylvia, who practice their trade as psychic readers. The triangular building dates from 1910 and is only 468 square feet, 234 per floor. The place just exudes charm - windows face both Bleecker Street and 7th Avenue South and allow easy viewing of the interior from the street. A brass placard on the exterior wall says Zena, New York & Cannes. See the gallery of photos here.

I have passed by this shop for decades - quiet, with its glowing interior beckoning to me. Last night it was time to probe this mystery. As fate had it, while shooting from the outside, pressed up against the beveled glass windows, Zena came by to enter her shop and asked if I would prefer taking photos from the inside. I accepted the invitation and entered for the first time.

This is one of the most comfortable small spaces I have ever been in. Everything is arranged and appointed just so. Soft fabrics, lighting and warm colors are everywhere. There are stained glass lamps, solid brass finishes and hardwood floors. A small stairway leads to the second floor where more plush furnishings could be found including a sofa. Zena told me that Architectural Digest had visited to do a story illustrating what can be done with small spaces.

I always wondered how such a small enterprise could support a shop in a high profile, high rent district. There are many possible answers, but Zena gave me one that made the most sense - she has owned the building for the last 25 years.

An elegant diamond shaped sign hanging in the window proclaims "Clairvoyant." A promo piece with a price schedule below lies below it. I can not speak to claims of psychic abilities and I have no experience with Zena or her daughter. For me, it was the mystery of the place that drew me to Zena's ...

The Dark Time

I felt a little embarrassed when I opened a Christmas gift from my late sister and found a travel guide to Finland with a note which said "go for it."

This gift and note were fueled by my obsession at that time with something I had read - an article about an article. The article, in Whole Earth Review, referenced a New Yorker article regarding the "the dark time" in northern Finland - that period of time in the winter where the sun does not rise for two months.

The New Yorker article (which I never got to read) discussed the culture and how they dealt with this extraordinary situation - lanterns and various activities to offset the ...

But as fascinating as all this was, I knew I would not really travel to Finland in the winter to experience polar nights first hand. I smiled after I opened that gift, but felt guilty knowing I would likely never use it. I still keep the book in my library.

I am fascinated by extreme environments and how they affect culture, mindsets etc. In many ways New York City is an extreme environment, particularly given that four out of five boroughs are on islands.

Of course if you are going to indulge yourself in fantasies of heading to the extreme north in winter, a study of maps will be required, something I am always happy to get lost in. I chose Finland because over 25% of its landmass is north of the arctic circle. I looked to the province of Lapland, where the northern most village is Nuorgam, in the Utsjoki municipality. This is also the northernmost point in the EU. (I recently learned, however, that Knivskjellodden, Norway is further north - it is the northern most on the European continent.) This seemed to be the perfect travel destination for my dream of experiencing the dark time.

Sunday, as every American knows, was the resetting of clocks to standard time which means the sun sets an hour earlier than daylight savings time - currently 4:50 PM. This means I not only rise before sunrise, but most leave our workplaces after sunset - most everyone I have spoken to is not enamored with the shorter days and early sunsets. Every year at this time, I think of the arctic circle and days with no sunshine, only twilight.

Some may find occupying one's mind with notions of polar nights, the arctic circle, and winter in Finland to be rather morose, adding insult to the injury of early sunsets and shortening days. But for me, when I contrast my life here with these remote, northern locales, I am happy that I do not really ever have to live in the Dark Time ...

Photo Note: I was granted access to a vacant floor in SoHo on Broadway with vistas west to the Hudson River. I took a series of photos during and after sunset. The photos were taken between 4:50 PM and 5:09PM. See additional photo here.

Halloween Parade 2009

Preparations for the Annual Village Halloween Parade start at 2 PM, five hours in advance of the parade itself. For more information about the parade and previous years photos see the links below. This year, with the parade on a Saturday, I decided to head to the setup area early in the day. This is actually a good time for perusing and photographing the many participants who arrive early - there are no crowds and still some daylight.

It was a very fortuitous decision, because as the parade began, slowly did the rain - starting as a light drizzle and building to a rain heavy enough to put a damper on the event. What began as crowds crushing to see the parade, became a mass exodus as paraders and spectators began fleeing. I have no idea how many marchers remained - I imagine a good number were not daunted after all the work and preparations that many put into this yearly extravaganza.

I did some photography for a short time in the rain, holding a umbrella at the same time, but this quickly became too tedious and with risk of damaging my camera equipment.

Participating in the parade, either as photographer or parader requires planning and strategy. In all the years I have been to the parade, I do not remember rain. But nature is not guaranteed to cooperate ...

NOTE: A history of the parade, with links and photos from the past three years can be found on my previous postings: Halloween Parade Preview 2006, Halloween Parade 2006, Village Parade 2007 Preview, Village Halloween Parade 2007, Village Halloween Parade 2007 Part 2. Halloween Parade 2008, Halloween Parade 2008 Part 2.

Luray Caverns

My first big family trip was to Luray Caverns and the Blue Ridge mountains in Virginia. For wide eyed children, the trip met all of our expectations with the unexpected perk of Southern hospitality which we all found so disarmingly wonderful, the family still talks of it today, decades later. Of course after a long ride down, a road stop was in order for a hungry family. There was a spirit of vacation esprit and I was able to order the deluxe breakfast, which, if I recall, was somewhere in the order of 50 cents and came with everything. My father, whose capacity for coffee knew no bounds, was delighted with the unlimited refills policy, something he had not experienced before. We were all in heaven and had not even set foot in the caverns yet.

The commercial cavern was an astounding display of dripstone - limestone formations created by the deposit of minerals which precipitates from dripping water. I learned about stalagmites and stalactites and how to remember the difference ("g" for ground, "c" for ceiling).

While looking at the black ooze coming from openings in the hideous walls in the East Broadway subway station waiting for the F train in New York City, it occurred to me that the same type of mineral sedimentation might be occurring. A conversation with two friends with long work experience at the Transit Authority, said the black ooze was a sedimentation of sorts, specifically insulation and explained the reasons for this in detail - the construction of the walls, tunnels, rainfall, water accumulation, saturation and oozing.

The display is certainly not as dramatic or colorful as the world's renowned show caves and I doubt anyone will be running tours. But the black color is so appropriate for a New York City subterranean gothic feel. Our own secret Luray caverns :)

Wood, Glass, Brass and Trees

I could have bought, I should have bought, I would have bought, but instead I have rented my current apartment for 27 years. Many ask why I have not bought a residence, the quintessential American investment. I hope the photo helps answer that question. This is the view from my apartment overlooking a park - only a handful of people in a city of millions are blessed with a vista like this every day.

I overlook Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village, something no money can buy because nothing is for sale on this square. Most property around the park is owned by New York University - the handful of residential apartments here are all rentals. I am not the only long term renter on my street - tenants in my building have been here for 30+ years as have other renters in the few neighboring townhouses not university owned.

There is a very unique situation here in New York City that skews and exacerbates everything - rent regulation. Rent stabilization and rent control laws regulate rent increases, resulting in a market where unregulated apartments have dramatically outpaced rent regulated ones.

So, many city residents who have lived here for long periods of time have artificially low rents, often fractions of the market rate. Many assume that rental apartments in prime locations and buildings are extremely expensive and occupied by the wealthy and privileged. This can be true, but often, the ability to occupy such places is more a function of how long a long tenancy than extreme wealth.

This is not all that it seems however, since there is a strong incentive for landlords to do as little work as possible in buildings and apartments where rent stabilization exists. Apartments are typically neglected and in disrepair.

In my case, I have desperately needed new windows since I moved in, but frequent pleas to the landlord fell on deaf ears. Until this summer, when, for reasons unexplained, a man came to measure and a short time later scheduled the installation. Voilà - I had new French windows with solid brass hardware. At last it's quieter and draft free. All I see now is wood, glass, brass and trees ...

Content Is King

Here is one secret about New York City - don't be misled by the user interface, because content is king. In the various stories on this website, I have written of many individuals who have surprised and often awed me once I spoke to them and learned about them. "Don't judge a book by its cover" has become my modus operandi, not just a hackneyed cliché.

This extends beyond the skin of people - institutions, businesses etc. all have to be approached the same way - look below the surface if that is where value is to be found. If you prefer the comfort of a Cadillac or plush carpeting, then New York City is probably not your place - unless you have lots of money to provide the cushioning and insulation.

In spite of this, one of the last places where an individual wants to overlook appearances is a hospital. This is a place which provides some of the most important services for the human condition, many which are life saving. When it comes to medical treatment, having competent doctors is what really matters - window dressing does not make up for malpractice. But, being in a hospital which is showing signs of wear, is dirty or disorganized is not going to help a patient's confidence.

I recently visited the Gouverneur Hospital walk-in clinic in lower Manhattan with a friend who had previously been there. The walk itself through an impoverished neighborhood was preparatory. The situation in the clinic was relatively under control - an hour's wait to see a doctor was to be expected in a walk-in clinic with no appointment on a Sunday afternoon. However, I imagine those arriving when the front desk was unattended with a sign "Out to Lunch" would not find it heartening, nor was the very small cockroach crossing the floor of the waiting room - I believe I was not the only one who noticed it.

The physician himself was good and, in spite of an overloaded waiting room, did not make us feel rushed, taking the time that was needed. He mentioned that he was moonlighting at Gouverneur and his regular workplace was New York Hospital Cornell Medical Center on the Upper East Side. I commented that Cornell was like a country club by comparison - he agreed and we both laughed, knowing full well that appearances in a hospital in this city are not a reliable barometer for the medical expertise. In a way, we were both really acknowledging that in New York City, content is king ...

Note: Note the "Out to Lunch" sign in the lower left.

Handle With Care

Don't give something important to citizens if you ever plan to take it away - people do not respond well to "temporary." A good example are the rent stabilization and rent control laws of New York City - highly contentious legislation between landlords and tenants, slowly and painfully being phased out. Regardless of very specific historical reasons for such laws and irrespective of whether they are any longer fair or reasonable, the past is now irrelevant to those reaping the benefits.

In 1999, to quell public uproar and facing three lawsuits, Mayor Rudolph Giuliani negotiated to sell 63 gardens to the Trust for Public Land, a national private conservation group. Decades ago when the city was plagued with urban decay and in severe financial condition, the city permitted community groups to transform vacant lots into gardens as part of an open-ended agreement. The Giuliani administration ended that agreement by attempting to auction the plots of land to developers, but ultimately sold the plots to the Trust for Public Land for $3 million.

The garden in today's photo is the Parque de Tranquilidad, located at 314-318 East 4th Street between Avenues C & D in the East Village on the site of a former synagogue. The garden is located directly across the street from the much larger El Jardin del Paraiso - see here.

This verdant oasis is carefully and beautifully manicured - it is one of the most meticulously maintained public gardens I have seen. It is a densely planted haven with winding stone pathways, wood fencing, flower gardens and birdhouses.

This minipark is arguably the best example of the design work of the late urban garden pioneer Liz Christy, of the Council on the Environment of New York City. Christy is widely known for starting the first New York City community garden in 1973 at Bowery and Houston streets, now named in her honor. TPL expects to convey the entire garden to the Manhattan Land Trust in 2009.

Not everything can or should be reduced to a business proposition. In a city with so much concrete, park land really provides important respite from the urban environment. To some, seeing prime real estate like this being used as a small park or community garden may appear to be a colossal waste of resources or a lost investment opportunity. But consider that any new housing built here would accommodate very few tenants at market prices. In aggregate, even if all of these gardens were converted to residential properties, they would only house a tiny number of people and make relatively no impact on the housing crisis, which crisis involves those seeking lower cost housing, not the affluent.

Although a human being has basic needs for survival, the human spirit needs care too ...

Related Posts: Guerillas in our Midst, Shangri-La, Devil's Playground, La Plaza Cultural Garden, Grapes, Stay Lean Stay Hungry, Urban Oasis, Alberts Garden, West Side Community Garden, Bird Country, Hua Mei Bird Garden.

Law School

If you want to be confused and perplexed, try wading through the regulations regarding vending on the streets of New York City. If you want to be disheartened, try looking at some of the facts and figures regarding the vending of merchandise. And if you want to be discouraged from earning a living this way, look at the costs of vending, fines, confiscation of goods and the uneven application of the law.

Welcome to the circle of confusion - the world of street vending where laws are difficult to understand by both vendors and police alike.

In this economic climate, jobs are difficult to nonexistent. Street vending is a way to earn a living and for some, a way into the world of business. The costs involved in setting up a retail establishment are prohibitive in New York for most individuals. Many well known businesses in New York City started on the streets such as Bloomingdales, Macy's, Cohen's Fashion Optical and Goldman Sachs.

There are approximately 12,000 street vendors in New York City. There are four categories of vendors: food vendors, general merchandise vendors, veteran vendors and First Amendment vendors who may sell newspapers, magazines, cd’s, books and art on the street without a vending license. There certainly are abuses with First Amendment vendors - a lot of merchandise is sold under this class to avoid the difficulties dealing with vendor's licenses and permits which are extremely difficult to get and have created a black market.

It is virtually impossible in New York City to get a general merchandise vendor's license - in 1979, City Council created a cap of 853 on the number of merchandise licenses. There is such a long waiting list that the Department of Consumer Affairs has not taken new names since 1992.

Food vendors need a license, on which there is no limit. However, They also need a Department of Health permit, which are limited at about 3,000 city-wide. Lotteries are held every few years to distribute any excess permits, but the average wait is still many years. Many food vendors who do not have their own permits enter into relationships with permit holders to use their permits, for a fee. There are no limits on veteran's permits.

The women in the photo (on Canal Street) had a vendor's license but not a food permit to sell fruit. In addition to fines, their merchandise was hauled away by the police. Each year in New York City, approximately 50,000 tickets are issued and 7,000 vendors are arrested. In 2005, the Bloomberg administration raised maximum fines from $250 to $1000.

There are regulations regarding where and how you can sell: Sidewalk must be at least 12 feet wide (Veterans are exempt) and you most be at least 20 ft from any store entrance, 10 feet from a crosswalk, 5 feet from a bus shelter, 20 ft from a sidewalk cafe and less than 18 inches from the curb. You can not set up over a ventilation grill or touch a fire hydrant or lamp post. There are also regulations regarding the vending table's size and other details. See here for a brochure outlining the facts and regulations.

Everything considered, a little more money and study will get you a civil service job or admission to law school :)

No Students After 1

I would guess you will not find another sign like this in New York City. Students are typically afforded privileges and their regular business is encouraged - student loans, student discounts etc. (these days, student discounts are ironic. In New York City, many students appear to be better off than many of the residents.)

In the garment district, you will often see signs "wholesale only" - a warning that business is open only to manufacturers and the trade, not retail customers. This is a strictly a business issue - merchants posting signs like this work on smaller profit margins and are not interested in selling a yard or fraction of a yard of fabric - they cater to those who buy one or more entire bolts of fabric at discounted pricing.

Being a wholesaler/distributor in the city, however, poses a unique problem for many vendors, since they often occupy ground floor spaces on streets with retailers and foot traffic. Even neighborhoods which at one time were predominantly commercial or industrial now have many residential tenants and visitors.

Here, at Kaufman Shoe Repair Supplies at 346 Lafayette, even though the business caters to the shoe repair industry, many of the products are of interest to the consumer or art student and sold in sizes and quantities reasonable to someone outside the trade. Items like foam crepe rubbers, specialty leathers, dyes and adhesives are virtually nonexistent elsewhere in the city.

Kaufman opens at 6:30 AM and closes at 2 PM. In their final hour of business, there is no time for casual shoppers and perusers of merchandise. You must know what you want and not make it difficult to service regular accounts who come just before closing. I have done business with Kaufman from time to time over the last 30 years and overall have found them professional and helpful.

I am reminded, however, of an incident that is indelibly branded in my mind as one of the most hostile retail encounters I have ever witnessed in New York City. I was waiting for service in a very busy lumberyard whose core business was the contracting trade, but was certainly open to retail. Dealing with customers who are often unsure of what they want or what they are doing can be tiring to someone accustomed to trades people who know exactly what they want and one salesman in particular was at the breaking point. With a room full of customers, he glared at an individual who was asking too many questions and said "Sir, this is not a f**king university! If you don't know what you want, leave." I wonder, would this mean no students after 1?

The Ear Inn

One of the best ways to experience Olde, intimate, atmospheric New York is to visit its vintage bars. There are a number vying for title as New York City's oldest - names like Fraunces Tavern, Pete's Tavern and The Ear Inn, located on the ground floor of the James Brown House, a historic landmark listed on the National Register of Historic Places. See more photos here.

The James Brown House is one of very few Federal houses left in the City. It is in largely original condition of 2 1/2 stories with dormers, double splayed keystone lintels, and a gambrel roof. The construction is all wood post and ‘beams set with pegs, with a facade of Flemish bond brick. The restaurant doors and window are late 19th century. The panel to the right of the main door is a night shudder cover to the original shop window, an 18th century style feature unique to this building. Once there were cellar windows and fireplaces in the bar area.

It was built in 1817 for James Brown, a prosperous African-American tobacco merchant, reputed to have been an aide to General Washington during the Revolutionary War.

At the time of its construction, the house was only five feet from the Hudson River shoreline. After James Brown's death, the city was booming with ship traffic. The river was filled out to West Street. New piers were built and rebuilt ever larger. From Spring Street, ships left for California, China, and Hoboken. The proximity to the water made it popular with sailors and longshoremen. It had a brewery that was later turned into a restaurant.

The property changed hands several times - in 1890 it was purchased by Irish immigrant named Thomas Cloke. Cloke sold the business in 1919 in anticipation of The Eighteenth Amendment to the United States Constitution, which prohibited the sale of alcohol. During Prohibition, the restaurant became a speakeasy, while the upstairs apartment was variously a boarding house, a smugglers den, and a brothel. Ghosts have been heard and seen, in particular “Mickey,” a sailor still waiting for his clipper ship to come in. Read more about the bar at their website here.

One of the most interesting features of this place is the sign. A Columbia University student Rip Hayman rented a room in the house in 1973. In 1977, Hayman and friends bought the building and christened it the Ear Inn, after a new music journal, The Ear, published upstairs. To avoid the Landmark Commission’s lengthy review on changing signage on historic buildings, portions of the letter "B" in the neon BAR sign were painted black to read EAR ...

Cones

Artisanal this and artisanal that - but as Raul D'Aloiso pointed out last night at Cones, the word does mean something. Only a word, but most purveyors of foods wielding this word are taking it seriously and doing their work carefully. The extent to which most food artisans are going with ingredient selection is extraordinary (see recent story on the Doughnut Plant here). Whether the customer is aware of the details or not, however, the result speaks for itself.

Gourmet foods are expected in a city like New York and in the world of ice cream, expectations are not disappointed. Competition has gotten fierce with more high quality individuals sample the products of the serious ...Once you have had the best, there is no going back.

Cones, Ice Cream Artisans, is located at 272 Bleecker Street in the West Village. The shop was started by brothers Raul and Oscar D'Aloiso, Argentinians of Italian ancestry. Oscar worked in the construction trade as a building site manager and was also a professional classical singer. Raul hold's a master's degree in architecture - he worked in the profession both in Buenos Aires and New York City. after his arrival here in 1989. Inspired by the artisanal gelato of Buenos Aires and their disappointment with Häagen-Dazs (which had a flagship shop in Buenos Aires), the brothers decided to introduce Argentinian style ice cream to New York City.

According to an article in the New York Times from 2003 (see here), New York City occupies an important place in the America's ice cream history. Reasons cited are America's first ice cream shop in 1777, the patent for the cone-making machine of Wall Street restaurateur Italo Marchiony in 1903, Reuben Mattus, a Polish immigrant and small-time ice cream maker in the Bronx responsible for Häagen-Dazs (and its short-lived New York-based imitators, Frusen Glädje and Alpen Zauber, made in Brooklyn). Sedutto's, the nation's first so-called superpremium ice cream was founded in New York in 1922.

More recently we have the Cold Stone Creamery, Emack and Bolios (from Boston), the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, Ciao Bella Gelato, Fauchon, Grom and Il Laboratorio Del Gelato which I wrote about - see here and the Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream truck - see here. There are still a handful of ice cream parlors too - Egger's in Staten Island, Hinsch's in Brooklyn, Jahn's in the Bronx (closed), Eddie's Sweet Shop in Queens.

If you've read this article, consider your homework done - go out and try some artisanal ice cream at Cones :)

Note about Cones: The shop has focused entirely on quality of product and word of mouth and reviews (they received a 27 food rating from the Zagat Survey). There has been no advertising or marketing and currently, Cones has no website.

Take Two

I was recently looking for a Vietnamese herbal formula for a friend. Extensive searching online found neither the product itself nor anything like it in the USA, even though the manufacturer was a well known company in Asia with a large product line.

I took a printout of ingredients from the company's website to Kamwo Pharmacy where a very helpful staff member, fluent in English, Chinese and online searching, quickly identified the ingredients, their Chinese names and said the formula could be easily reverse engineered.

Kamwo Pharmacy, located at 211 Grand Street, on the border of SoHo, Little Italy and Chinatown is the largest herbal pharmacy on the East coast. They stock a huge inventory of herbs and packaged products but their real forte is the creation of custom formulations from a selection of over 1000 herbal substances from throughout Asia, including exotic ingredients like dried seahorses, cicadas, deer antler and geckos.

The herbs for each formulation are taken from drawers that line the wall, weighed on balance scales hanging overhead, crushed or sliced and wrapped in crisp white sheets of paper. Hundreds of orders are filled per day from around the country. The shop also has an online store. See their website here.

The staff at Kamwo is extremely diverse. Here you will find employees who have not only received training in Traditional Chinese Medicine but others in the organization come from the ranks of business, science and western medicine with degrees from many of the country's finest schools in graphic design, hotel management, pharmacy, nursing, computer engineering, business administration, marketing, biology.

The owner, Thomas N. Leung, has a Bachelor of Science in Pharmacy from the State University of New York. Tom is a 4th generation herbalist. His father, Shan Leung, founded Kamwo Pharmacy in 1973. This training in both traditions gives him a special expertise in .

Few health conscious individuals remain purists. Over time, diets and treatments for ailments evolve to a utilitarian, balanced approach - eating what is reasonable and using treatments that work. When the time comes to deal with a serious ailment, most, like Thomas Leung, will take a real world approach and turn to the products or modalities best suited for the job, be it Eastern, Western or the two.

Tom feels that herbs are better at treating the underlying cause of a problem while western medicine treats the symptoms. "I always tell people, if I have a headache, I'll take a Tylenol, no questions asked. But if I have a persistent sore throat, I'll take herbs."

Misfits

It is safe to say that in wired world, sights of individuals like those in the photo are no longer unusual. It is also a reasonable assumption that in many places, even outside urban areas or college towns, people like this can be found in the flesh.

But I would guess that businessmen in pinstripe suits do not often wear their hair like our subway rider in the photo and tattooed individuals brandishing mohawks do not usually walk the streets with a T-Shirt "Misfits." I imagine the word is embraced for its dictionary meaning and not just for the punk rock band of that name.

I have avoided using the word misfit in this blog for a number of reasons, one of which is that the word generally has a somewhat derogatory connotation. But assuming social misfits exist, New York City is certainly a place to find them. This is an environment where virtually anyone with any manner of dress or lifestyle can feel quite at home. In fact, it is questionable whether the word misfit is really applicable in a city where such a large number of nonconformists exist and one is often not very far from another. A trip to Tompkins Square Park can easily make the societal conformist feel like an outcast or misfit.

In the case of the individuals in the photo, there is a strong element of exhibitionism. However, I have met many individuals here, who by any reasonable definition, really are social misfits, with extreme and very self indulgent lifestyles, but the nature of which is not apparent to the outsider at all.

Such a large number of misfits should come as no surprise in a country which has seen such a upsurge in the radical individualism of youth since the 1960s. The US Army has had to market with campaigns like "Be all that you can be" and "Army of One." This is of course rather ironic, since the army never has been and never can be a place for individualism, but the ad campaigns do reveal how systemic and important individualism really is in this country.

In a society without strong cultural scripting and where individualism and self empowerment are constantly trumpeted to be such laudable personal goals, we must accept the consequences. Here in a city where there is such a a melange of iconoclasts and misfits, many live unaware of how outside the normal constructs of society they really are. Others are quite aware and proud enough to identify themselves with a t-shirt ...

Related Postings: Out There, Spike, Narcissism Gone Wild, Water Sprites, Wood Nymph, Spring Madness, The Dance Parade, Dyke March, Twelve Tribes, Penny Farthing, Homeless Art, Superheroes, Snake Charmer, Circus Amok, Fashion Forward, Piercing Al Fresco.

Alchemist's Corner

Occasionally demolition affords a rare opportunity to see something previously hidden from street view, like fading vintage mural ads - see Vintage Mural here. The opportunity can also be limited in time, when new construction replaces old as is the case here at 133-139 MacDougal Street, former home of Provincetown Playhouse (which will be become NYU law offices). A friend and neighbor called my attention to a small rooftop house now visible from MacDougal Street. There are a handful of these small rooftop dwellings in New York City and I'm fascinated by them. See Pied-à-Aire here.

The small house is on the roof of 132 West 4th Street (photo right). The exquisite Greek Revival rowhouse was built in 1839 and was renovated in 1917 by Josephine Wright Chapman, one of the first successful women architects in America. The exterior was left largely intact, with the addition of casement windows to the parlor floor and a sloped studio window to the attic level, where in the same year, actor John Barrymore rented an apartment.

Barrymore did extensive work - interior decoration which included papering the walls in gold and building a rooftop garden. In an amazing twist, playwright Paul Rudnick leased the "medieval duplex" apartment in 1987. Here is Rudnick's story from a New Yorker article in 2007:

The apartment in question consisted of the full, narrow top floor, and I was smitten. The theatrical plasterwork continued throughout, and there was a bay window with a window seat, flanked by portholes of thick, leaded Mediterranean-blue stained glass, all overlooking the leafy corner of Washington Square Park where fanatics play chess. There was a micro-kitchen, one tiny closet, and a cramped, nineteen-seventies-vintage Pepto-Bismol-pink tiled bathroom, but none of this mattered, thanks to a vaulted skylight, a fireplace, assorted archways, and a hidden, winding staircase. The stairs led to the roof, where I found a large deck. A sun-bleached oak ship’s wheel, six feet in diameter, leaned against the outer wall of a hobbit-scale cottage-—one room, with a beamed ceiling. The broker was chatty, and she mentioned that the apartment had once been the home of John Barrymore.

Learning of the history of the rooftop aerie, he was moved to write something set at the address, which eventually became I Hate Hamlet. Upon investigation, here is what Rudnick learned about Barrymore's rooftop abode:

As I settled in, I researched my new home. Barrymore had taken up residence in 1917, just before he began performing his legendary Hamlet uptown. His film career at that point was limited to locally shot silent movies, including an early take on “Moby-Dick,” which may have been the source of the ship’s wheel. Barrymore had remodelled the apartment as a Gothic retreat, christening it the Alchemist’s Corner. He had installed all the false beams, monastery-inspired ironwork, and stained glass, which made his lair resemble a stage set for an Agatha Christie whodunnit in summer stock. The rooftop had been his masterpiece, and had at one time included a garden, with cedar trees, a slate walkway, and a reflecting pool. Tons of soil had to be hoisted up by pulley, and eventually caused a collapse into the rooms below. Of Barrymore’s vision only the cottage remained; he’d likened it to a roost overlooking the spires of Paris.

Make a trip soon to MacDougal Street if you want to see the cottage at the Alchemist's Corner ...

Note: Frank Jump has built a website around fading ads - a photographic project documenting vintage mural ads on building brickfaces in New York City spanning nearly a century. Many of these gems are also uncovered in the process of New York City construction with demolition of structures which had prohibited views of the signage. See his website here.

Get Well Curve

There is a peculiar variety of retailing in New York City. This is where sales people are actively involved in an anti-sales approach. I'm not talking about ignoring customers. I refer to a sales person who actually argues with a customer, preferring they buy nothing rather than buying a product they do not consider worthy of consideration, even if they stock it.

As a long time resident, I have become used to this flavor of arrogance which can be found in certain businesses - particularly ones in a highly specialized niche market, often, but not always, with high end products.

Welcome to Bicycle Habitat at 244 Lafayette Street in SoHo, a store where bike aficianados both shop and work. Complaints here range from being ignored (with sales people chatting among themselves, an all to common scenario these days) to out right rudeness. My experience there on one occasion is illustrative.

I was interested in a Dahon folding bike. Bicycle Habitat was a dealer for Dahon at the time, but there were none on display. When I asked the salesman, who judging by his attire was a serious bicyclist, whether I could see one, he said if I really insisted, he could go downstairs and get one. However, he was quite reluctant and instead asked why I would want to spend money on a folding bike when for the same money I could buy a "real" bike? I answered that I had a "real" bike in storage which I never used and that if I had a folding bike, I could store it in my home and actually use it. The conversation ended here - there was apparently no use in him discussing the matter further with someone willing to compromise.

A review site I visited shows 21 reviews for this shop. The distribution of 1 to 5 star reviews is an almost perfect inverted bell curve or well curve - see here. Startling, isn't it? Service here is typically experienced by the customer as great or horrific with virtually no middle ground.

The secret to a shopping in a place like Bicycle Habitat is to be knowledgeable about the products and on the same page as the staff. These are the customers that have positive experiences.

Is it worth the trouble dealing with a place like this? Often, a customer has no choice, where the vendor is virtually the only one of its type - like Canal Rubber - see here. We have specialty stores here that exist no where else and where often, the staff is extraordinary in their knowledge and expertise. Customers are very appreciative that such a place exists at all.

Not every business with a dominance or captive audience abuses the privilege. Places like B&H Photo treat customers very well in spite of their virtual hegemony in their retail niche.

But for some, the get well curve even in recessionary times appears to be based on the philosophy there's no business like no business :)

Yonah Schimmel

The knish is perhaps one of the most distinctly New York City foods, rarely found outside the city environs. Most roads and knish conversations lead to the Yonah Shimmel Knish Bakery on the Lower East Side. You may find the service here a little on the rough side, but this is customer service, olde New York Style and that means let's get our business done - you know what you want, we've got what you want, we sell it to you - transaction completed. No hand holding. Like the famed Soup Nazi of TV's Seinfeld show - see here.

You will also find that the interior has an authentic 1910 decor. But the knowledgeable patron comes here for knishes, not service, decor or ambiance.

The knish is essentially a baked or fried dumpling-like snack food - a dough covered filling which is baked or deep fried. It has its roots in Eastern Europe and is very similar to many Polish, Romanian, Ukrainian and Austrian pastry-wrapped dumplings. The modern knish is a New York City creation, a food introduced by Jewish immigrants. Knishes come in basically two varieties - square or round. The square style are fried and reheated. Fillings run the gamut, but the classic and most common is the potato filled knish. From the Cookstr.com website:

It’s probably just that most tourists—most New Yorkers, even—don’t know the pleasures of a true knish. And by true I mean not the square, soggy, fried, gluey potato hand pie you still find stuck sadly to the side at most Famous Ray’s, but the round, open-faced, somewhat strudel-y incarnation.

I concur completely with this view. Ironically, you will see reviews that contradict this and refer to the round style as doughy etc. The opinions span the spectrum, both of what style is best and how Yonah Schimmel's knishes stack up.

Look at it this way - if square, fried knishes were the standard by which all knishes are to be measured, then why would Gabila's, who introduced the square fried knish and has sold over one billion of them since 1921, also make round baked knishes and refer to them as "gourmet style"?

My first knishes were the square type, which at one time were readily available at most hotdog carts on the street. Regulations in 1996 made it much more difficult to sell knishes from street carts, so knishes in New York City are not as commonly available as they used to be. So, if you look to have a genuine potato knish, visit Yonah Schimmel :)

Note: Yonah Schimmel was a Romanian immigrant who started selling knishes from a pushcart on the Lower East Side in 1890. A small shop was rented by Schimmel and his cousin Joseph Berger. In 1910, they relocated the business to 137 East Houston Street, its current location. Much of the business is take out, however there are a few tables and a menu of other items.

Accept the Invitation

I have always loved bookstores - a great wave of comfort comes over me when I enter one - all those books with the wisdom of the ages just waiting to be tapped.

When traveling, I have found a city or town's bookstore a good barometer of a place. The type of bookstore, atmosphere, inventory, patrons and perhaps most importantly whether a town has a bookstore at all - a small town with one or more bookstores says a lot about a community. They have a lot of readers. I grew up in a blue collar town of 40,000 people with no bookstore to be found. Moving to New York City was like nirvana.

When I first moved here, there were no bookstore cafes. It was rumored that somewhere out West, perhaps in Boulder, Colorado, there was a place where one could sit, read, relax and even have snacks and beverages. But this was really a dream, a mirage. Certainly such a phenomenon would never come to pass in New York City where magazine stands posted signs "No Reading." See here.

Now bookstore cafes are a standard - customers expect them, along with unlimited browsing, reading, WiFi access and laptop use. People park themselves for hours with stacks of books and magazines, often making notes or studying. The bookstore has become a library of sorts.

One of the most inviting spaces is Housing Works Bookstore Cafe at 126 Crosby Street in SoHo, a used bookstore, literary hub and concert/events venue. The bookstore is stocked entirely by donated books, music and movies and staffed primarily with volunteers. See more photos here.

Apart from the bookstore cafe, Housing Works runs a chain of nine thrift shops (with lots of used designer clothing), a catering company and a screen printing business as social enterprises to support their work and reduce their dependence on grants and donations. Earned income from these businesses accounts for approximately 90 percent of their revenue.

Housing Works, Inc. is the largest community based AIDS organization in the United States and operates more than 50 facilities in the five boroughs of New York City, Albany, NY, and Washington, DC.

Housing Works was founded in 1990 by Keith Cylar, Charles King, Eric Sawyer and Virginia Shubert. The organization has provided housing, medical and mental health care, meals, job training, drug treatment, HIV prevention education, and social support to more than 20,000 homeless and low-income New Yorkers living with HIV and AIDS. Learn more at their website here.

The colors are so warm and the atmosphere so inviting - why not accept the invitation?

Mad as Hell 2

Do you want to inflame some New Yorkers? Then set up a 9/11 conspiracy presentation on the street. There are several grassroots organizations involved in promoting 9/11 conspiracy theories - i.e. that the United States Government was responsible for 9/11 and the attacks were either a) intentionally allowed to happen or b) that they were a false flag covert operation actually orchestrated and committed by the US Government itself. The alleged motives for such an act? To justify the invasion of Afghanistan and Iraq, increase military spending and/or to restrict civil liberties. The movements are large enough to have grabbed the attention of mainstream media. You may also have seen "9/11 Was an Inside Job" on T-Shirts and bumper stickers.

We Are Change is one group that has appeared on a semi-regular basis in Washington Square Park on Saturday nights. On a recent occasion, a man who identified himself as an architect (and said his wife was also an architect) was so outraged that a major war of words ensued between himself and one of the presenters. Virtually out of control, the man paced to and fro like a wild animal. When approaching his foe he asserted "You're an idiot. I defend your right to be an idiot, but you're still an idiot." He turned and attempted to leave repeatedly, but each time he left he was compelled to come back and repeat his mantra.

The 9/11 conspiracy joins history's many hoaxes and conspiracy theories:

NASA faked the moon landings, Paul is Dead, Shakespeare was somebody else, global warming is a hoax, Elvis Presley faked his own death, Diana Princess of Wales was murdered, Holocaust deniers, Jesus conspiracy (ala The Da Vinci code), the AIDS virus was created in a laboratory, the Illuminati control world affairs, a flying saucer crash in Roswell, New Mexico, JFK assassination conspiracy theories, fluoridation is mass medication and Pearl Harbor was allowed to happen.

One problem with such conspiracies is that the proponents are armed with a myriad of details that average person is unfamiliar with and thereby unable to refute on the spot. Without opposing viewpoints, the arguments can be persuasive to some. Another problem is that unexplained facts or anomalies do not necessarily invalidate an accepted theory. From Scientific American:

The mistaken belief that a handful of unexplained anomalies can undermine a well-established theory lies at the heart of all conspiratorial thinking. All the evidence for a 9/11 conspiracy falls under the rubric of this fallacy. Such notions are easily refuted by noting that scientific theories are not built on single facts alone but on a convergence of evidence assembled from multiple lines of inquiry.

In the case of the 9/11 conspiracy, there are now numerous websites, magazines and books which debunk the 9/11 conspiracy theories, point by point (and there are websites and books which attempt to debunk the debunkers).

When conspiracists appear, I'm staying on the sidelines and letting others get mad as hell ...

Note: For another New Yorker pushed to the breaking point, see Mad as Hell here.

Rags and Riches

I recall speaking to a young architect many years ago, expressing my dissatisfaction with NYU's hulking Bobst Library on Washington Square South. She explained that from an architectural perspective, the nature of a library demands such an imposing structure. I was not thoroughly convinced that this particular library needed to have such an imposing presence on Washington Square, particularly such an enormous, monolithic cubic design, but I did come to appreciate that certain types of institutions can instill confidence in their patrons by the nature of their structure. And what would be a better candidate than a bank, home and guardian for our money? From an article in the New York Times:

Why build such evocative Greek temples to begin with? To inspire confidence. When the United States economy collapsed in the Panic of 1893, many people blamed banks for the depression that followed and withdrew their money.

So, banks built in that era (until the end of the Great Depression, when banks began to demystify themselves with glass-fronted branches) were meant to suggest strength, as if they had been there forever.

The Bowery Savings Bank,130 Bowery at Grand Street, is an outstanding structure. It was designed by Stanford White (1853 - 1906), from the firm of McKim, Mead, and White, and built in 1895. The landmark building is adorned with Corinthian columns, Venetian glass, marble mosaic floors and 65-foot ceilings.

The Bowery Savings Bank, however, ran into serious financial difficulties and in 1985 was sold to Richard Ravitch and others. It's current incarnation is Capitale, an upscale events space and popular wedding facility. To see a photo gallery of the beautiful interior spaces, see their website here.

Equally remarkable is the building's location on the Bowery, a street/area which in recent history has been quite impoverished - known as skid row and home for Bowery bums. Sections of the area have become gentrified. To walk the street is still a very uneven experience with the lighting district, restaurant supply district, bits of Chinatown, an art museum, Cooper Union - it is a rags and riches story ...

Note: The roster of works designed my McKim Mead and White is extraordinary. In New York City alone, they were responsible for the Harvard Club of New York, Madison Square Garden II, The Cable Building, Washington Square Arch, Columbia University's Morningside Heights campus, The Morgan Library & Museum, The Manhattan Municipal Building, Bellevue Hospital Center, James Farley Post Office, The Town Hall, Savoy-Plaza Hotel and the Villard Houses. The existing building replaced the original Bowery Savings Bank building of 1834.